Tri šešira

Tri šešira, the Three Hats, opened in 1864 and is the oldest kafana still working in Skadarlija, Belgrade's old bohemian street. Skadarska is less than 400 metres long and draws up to 20,000 people a day, and this is the address that best explains why: traditional Serbian food, long evenings and musicians who play at the tables.

It opens daily from 11:00 to 02:00, so a late dinner can turn into the whole night. Book for the evening, and expect the band to stop at your table at some point. Not for you if you want a quiet meal: In Your Pocket describes the roaming orchestra as a little pervasive, and the novelty is the point.