Olivier

Olivier fills a restored former schuilkerk, a clandestine church, on Achter Clarenburg in the city centre. The high ceilings and the organ loft are still there, and a clock above the bar is fixed at 23:55, a nod to Flemish café tradition.

The list runs to around 80 beers, mostly Belgian, each served in its own glass, with rotating taps and Belgian food such as mussels. It opens every day from 11:00 or 11:30 and closes at 23:00 early in the week, at midnight on Thursday and at 01:00 on Friday and Saturday. Groups of eight or more should call ahead. Not for you if you want a late night: it is the warm-up, not the destination.